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Sigma SD14 – the
Compendium.

The
information in this document is based on my own use of the
SD14 (16.000+ images since may 2007) - and on posts made on
the Sigma forum of
dpreview.com.

Thinking of
getting a SD14?

Waiting for, or
just got a SD14?

Used
the SD14 for a while?

You
will find useful info in this document.

This
document is for you.

You
will find some advanced info in this document. Also read
about other lens options for the
SD14:

What's in the package?

What else do you need?

Some tips on how to get started properly.

Useful information on various functions

Errors and workarounds (if any)

Undocumented features

Reference to SD14 users galleries.

Software options

1.
Before you begin

1.1
The SD14 package includes:

1.
Camera body (SD14)
2. Body cap (on the
camera)
3. Eyepiece cup (on the camera)

4. Strap
5. Finder cap

6. Li-ion battery BP-21. A battery
cover is included.
7. Battery charger
BC-21
8. Battery charger Cable

9. USB cable
10. Video cable

11. SIGMA Photo Pro CD (SPP3)
12.
Instruction Manual
13. Warranty card
14.
SIGMA Limited Warranty & Service Network

1.2
What else will you need?

1.2.1
What you must have:

A Compact
Flash (CF) card
A CF card reader
A lens (if
not included with your package)

1.2.2
What you should also get:

Additional
CF cards
An additional battery

1.2.3
Useful from day 1:

A grey
card, or other means, to help set the white
balance (WB)
A screen calibration tool (either
hardware or software)

1.2.4
Additional stuff for later:

Power grip PG-21. A battery grip that holds 2
batteries.
An AC power adapter (SAC-2); useful
for firmware upgrades.
Remote controller RS-31.
More info later
Cable release switch CR-21.More
info later

1.3  Getting the right
card.

1.3.1  Type

The SD14 uses Compact Flash (CF) cards. (It is
possible to use a SD card with a CF
adapter.)

1.3.2  Size

The SD14 image files in RAW format are between
8 and 20+ Mb in size. A 2Gb CF card can store
about 130 images. Currently you can get CF cards
up to 64 Gb (or more). Consider the risk of losing
many pictures if a card fails.

1.3.3  Speed

A fast CF card (with a fast card reader) gets
the images faster off the card, but has little
effect on the in-camera writing speed and preview.
I use one of the fastest available cards, the
Sandisk Extreme IV 2Gb FAT16 (see below about FAT
settings), but it gives me no faster writing than
a cheaper, slower card. Faster cards do not
influence the frames per second (fps) or buffer
clearing time, because the SD14 does not support
the protocols for the fast cards (UDMA 4.0),
meaning it cannot take advantage of the higher
data transfer rate while writing the
image

1.3.4  Quality

The better CF cards have algorithms that
randomly distribute the files on the CF-card,
while the less expensive ones always start from
the beginning of the card. As there are a limited
number of write times at a given point at the
card, the better ones last longer. While there is
no guarantee against failure for any brand of
card, it appears that the risk is smaller with the
more expensive cards. I would not dream of
trusting my pictures to an unknown, cheap brand.
Be aware that there are MANY fake cards on the
market - see the next section

1.3.5  Counterfeit CF cards

eBay estimates that more than 95% of all CF
cards offered on eBay is counterfeit. Millions of
people have been cheated.
See the full article
here:
So,
be careful, or buy only from a recognised
dealer.

1.4  What lens should I
get?

This depends on your particular need. You can
always ask for recommendations at dpreview.com,
the Sigma forum.

1.4.1  Crop factor

The sensor in the SD14 is smaller than the 35mm
format/a full frame sensor. The difference is
expressed as a crop factor - the SD14 having a
crop factor of 1.7. You multiply this factor to
the mm of the lens, to get the effective focal
length of the lens.
Example: A 50-150mm on a
SD14 equals a 85-255mm on a Full Frame camera
(50x1,7 = 85, 150 x 1.7 = 255).

1.4.2  Quality of the lens

The sensor deserves a high quality lens. The
Sigma lenses with EX in their name is better than
non EX lenses. Kit lenses are never EX, so you
might not get optimal results with them. If you
can afford it, get better glass.

1.4.3  Can you use other than SA mount
lenses?

Yes! The SD14 uses the Sigma SA mount, with
lenses made only by Sigma. If this is a
limitation, there are several alternatives – but
then you, in most cases, have to accept manual
focus and aperture. The various alternatives will
let you use lenses with a variety of mounts: M42,
Pentax K, Canon (EF and FD), Nikon F, Zeiss (ZF,
ZS, N, C/Y), Leica (M and R), Minolta, Olympus,
Exacta, Hasselblad, Mamiya 645, Deckel,
Pentacon-six, Pentax (645 and 6x7) and possibly
more.

The alternatives range from using an adapter
(or two), to replacing mounts either on the lens
(several alternatives) or on the camera (Nikon,
Leica R, Olympus, Canon EF.).

As an example: A Zeiss ZS can be used with a
M42 to SA adapter. Several members of the Sigma
Forum at dpreview.com use a number of Non-Sigma
lenses. Go here.
for extensive information.

1.5  Getting the right
battery/charger

1.5.1  Sigma battery

One Sigma battery (BP-21) is included in the
package along with a Sigma charger. The battery is
7.4V, 1500mAh.

1.5.2  The Power grip
(PG-21)

The advantage of the PG-21 is

Double battery capacity, as it can take two
Li-ion batteries, and automatically switch.

More safety from power related issues when
doing firmware upgrade

Better vertical position grip.

Additional shutter release for verticals

1.5.3  Extra batteries

Sigma says to use the original battery but
several people use replacement
batteries.

These non-Sigma batteries are
known to work:

NP-400 for Pentax/Minolta-Impact

DL150 (off-brand battery for Minolta NP400)

Pentax D-L150 battery (1620mAh)

Other off-brand NP400 batteries, but these
may not have the same precise dimensions as the
original. 3 users have reported problems with
NP-400 compatible batteries sold by Cameta.
These are difficult to get out of the camera.
Check carefully and adjust the battery before
inserting it all the way. Some of the cheaper
NP-400 clones does not last long.

Some users recommend only batteries with
Japanese and not Chinese cells.

There are replacement batteries rated at
1200mAh, 1300mAh, 1500mAh, 1700mAh, 2000mAh or
other, so check carefully. 200mAh is roughly equal
to 20 minutes of battery life.

These batteries do NOT
work:

Olympus BLM1 has the same specs as BP-21
(7.4V 1500mAh Li-ion), but it has wrong
contacts.

Batteries for Sigma SD9/SD10

1.5.4  The charger

The Sigma charger can charge non-Sigma
batteries. Chargers for NP-400 (and clones) can
charge Sigma BP-21 batteries.

1.6  Getting the right
camera release

1.6.1  Sigma CR-21 remote
switch

Sigma deliver a remote switch, CR-21. Other
makes may work – see comments later in this
document.

1.6.2  SIGMA RS-31 remote
controller

More info below.

Contents:

1  Before you begin:

1.1  The
SD14 package includes:
1.2  What
else will you need?
1.2.1  What
you must have:
1.2.2  What
you should also get:
1.2.3  Useful
from day 1
1.2.4  Additional
stuff for later:
1.3 Getting
the right card.

1.3.1  Type
1.3.2
Size
1.3.3  Speed
1.3.4
Quality
1.3.5  Counterfeit CF
cards

1.4 What lens should I get?

Can you use only SA mount lenses on the
SD14?

1.5 Getting the right
battery/charger

Sigma battery
The Power grip
(PG-21)
Extra batteries
The
charger

1,6 Getting the right camera release

Sigma CR-21 remote switch
SIGMA RS-31
remote controller

2. Beginnings

2.1 First
steps:

2.2 Good to know:

2.3
Battery

Charging and seasoning
Faulty
batteries

2.4 CF
cards

What File System to use?
CF cards
previously used in another type of camera
How
to get the images off the card?
CF Card
speed
Size considerations
Special
cards

2.5
Firmware

Firmware upgrade warning
Current firmware
version and known bugs
Firmware
location
Check your version of the
Firmware
Firmware history
Firmware
upgrade
The procedure:
Afterword on
firmware upgrade

Adjusting the dioptre setting
About
resolution
JPEG extraction from RAW

3 Start using the
camera:

Exposure
Histogram
Basic
measuring
Red
Over exposure
warning

About focus

Focus test
Focus adjustments
AF Focus
points
Focus confirm with manual
focus
Focus and Exposure Off-centre

Sensor/Screen alignment.
Sleep
mode
P–Mode
Camera
movement
Viewfinder
Coverage
Screen
Additional
options

WB

Custom WB
WB indoor, with tungsten and
halogen light.
Mired filters
Mix JPEG and
RAW

File
numbering

Multiple cards and 9999+ images
Restoring
proper numbering sequence

Flash
Photography

Pop-Up flash
Sigma flashes
PC Syncro
Terminal
Flash photography – General
info

ISO
About speed
Dark frame
capture
Mirror Up

Releases

SIGMA CR-21 remote switch
SD9 and SD10
releases
Non-Sigma releases
SIGMA RS-31
remote controller

LCD screen
AEL (Auto Exposure
Lock)

Dust

The dust protector
Cleaning the
sensor

IR

The func menu system

Addendum to/errors in the manual.

Undocumented features

Flash - lowest shutter speed
Halfway press
with Cable Release CR-21 supported
Flash
sync.
AEL

Changes due to Firmware
updates

ISO 50
Sensor cleaning on battery

Non-Sigma lenses for SD14

RAW
Development

Color calibration
SPP
Raw Developer
(Mac only)
Adobe Lightroom
Adobe Photoshop
CS2
Adobe Photoshop CS3
Photoshop Elements
5

2  Beginnings

2.1  First steps:

Charge the battery. See also: Charging and
seasoning
Insert the CF card
Adjust the diopter
setting correctly.
Enable Extended mode, which gives
you ISO50 (Requires Firmware 1.05 and up) and ISO1600.

Set the image quality to high and RAW.

2.2  Good to know:

-The viewfinder shows 96% of what the sensor
captures.. (98% vertically and 98%
horizontally)
-Because of the relatively small
sensor, the camera is quite vulnerable to camera shake.
Use a tripod whenever possible.
-The LCD image and
histogram is made from the in-file JPEG of the RAW file.
Changing "Camera Settings" in the Menu will influence
adjust the appearance of the image on the LCD screen,
but it will also change the histogram, thus making it
impossible to use the histogram as exposure
help.
-Underexposed parts of the pictures may yield
very ugly noise (magenta/green blotches). This is
invisible in preview on the LCD screen, so you have to
learn from experience. If you can see that your exposure
will leave areas dark, consider exposing a little
lighter and pull back in SPP, as this will greatly
reduce noise. Several people have chosen to apply +EV0.7
as a standard setting (at ISO 100 and up), to keep noise
down, as this has been a method generally "accepted" on
dpreview, Sigma Forum. Others claim it is unnecessary,
as long as one watches the exposure on the
histogram.

2.3  Battery

2.3.1  Charging and seasoning

There isn't much power on the battery when you open
the box, so your first step should be to charge it. Many
people have experienced improved capacity when
'seasoning' the batteries. Seasoning means discharging
and recharging the battery several times. Use the
slideshow function on the camera to empty the battery,
then recharge again. Repeat a few times.
Actually,
L-ion batteries should not have issues with seasoning; I
think it may be a matter of cell alignment.
Li-ion
batteries should also not be completely discharged. Do
NOT try to be smart and discharge it by shorting the
terminals or using a lamp to completely emptying it.
This will shorten the battery life. You are safe if you
use the camera to discharge the battery (slideshow is a
good method), then the battery will be far from empty
when the camera stops working.
Do not store a
discharged battery for a long period of time, as this
will reduce battery life.
Some more useful tips here.

2.3.2  Faulty batteries

Unfortunately, some people have gotten batteries that
just did not improve after several discharge/charge
cycles. Contact Sigma.
You should be able to get at
least a few hundred shots. I have got about 400 at most,
others have got even more. There has been reports of
1000+ shots.

2.4  CF cards

You insert the CF card "backwards" (front away from
you). The ridge then faces you, and makes it easier to
get the card out.

2.4.1  What File System to
use?

For CF cards LARGER than 2Gb, use FAT32, for 2GB and
smaller use FAT16. (FAT16 is supposed to be a little bit
faster than FAT32.)
(The term FAT/FAT32 describes
how the file system on the card is
organized)

2.4.2  CF cards previously used
in another type of camera

A CF card that has been used in another type of
camera, may or may not work with the SD14. While there
is no rational reason for this, as each camera makes its
own folder, the general advice is to use a CF-card
exclusively in one camera only. There are known problems
with other brands/cameras. At least, test properly that
it works before critical shooting and before firmware
upgrade.
If you experience/suspect problems due to
use in another camera, I recommend using Windows to
reformat. Do not relay on in-camera formatting for this,
as this is just a quick-format formatting.

2.4.3  How to get the images
off the card?

You can connect the SD14 directly to the computer and
download from it, or use a CF-card reader. Most people
do the latter.
Depending on the speed of the card,
there is a huge time improvement getting the images off
the card with a fast reader.
Do not work in SPP v3
(win) (the RAW developing SW included with your camera)
directly against the card, as this software is buggy,
and at least in theory could render the files on the
card unusable. This warning applies both if the CF card
is in the camera or in the reader. I would not recommend
to do it with other versions of SPP eighter. Copy the
files to the HD first.
If you choose to not use a
card reader, expect that Windows at some point no longer
will see the camera. This is a Windows fault, not a
camera fault. If so, try to reboot, or as a last resort,
use a DOS window and copy the files with DOS commands.
Drop me an email if you need help on this.
Most
people use a card reader to unload the images. Even if
the CF card has no exposed contacts, it is vulnerable to
ESD, so be careful when changing. Do not walk around on
carpets with your card in hand. If you can ground
yourself before touching the card, and only place the CF
card on an anti-static surface, you minimize the
risks.

2.4.4  CF Card speed

As mentioned in the "Before you begin"
section, the SD14 cannot take advantage of a fast card.
However, it may pay to get a fast card with UDMA
support, as you really speed up the time to get the
images off the card. And more and more cameras do
support them. (According to Sandisk: currently 5 cameras
support UDMA (Canon IDs Mark III, Nikon D3 and D300, Oly
E3 and Sony A700). The upcoming SD15 do not use CF
cards, but SD cards..

Speed
table

1x
(base rate)

150kB/s

20x

3MB/s

80X

9MB/s

120x

15MB/s

A-Data

133x

20MB/s

266x

40MB/s

Ritek,
Kingston

300x

45MB/ss

Sandisk,
Lexar

Actual
speed is always
lower.

2.4.5  Size
considerations

The SD14 should support any CF card size.

All
CF cards will ultimately fail. Depending on the quality,
they are designed to handle an average of between 10.000
and 1.000.000 writes in any one "spot".  So, with a
cheap CF card, you start to live dangerously after 5.000
images, as every time you insert the card, it will start
form the same place. Better cards have "wear leveling"
that spread the writing out.
Dirt and ESD (Electric
Static Discharge) can also ruin your card. ESD is more
likely to happen with frequent changes, and with fast
changes.

So, do you want a small number on the
card, so not to lose a lot of images when the card
breaks? Or, do you want to use larger cards, so you
lessen the risk of ESD by avoiding frequent CF card
changes in the field?

Sizes
available

File
system

(FAT)

Max
size by manufacturer

Appr.
No of RAW images on card

32,64,128,256

MB

16

512MB

16

1GB

16

62

2GB

16

125

4GB

32

250

8GB

32

A-Data

500

16GB

32

Kingston

1000

32GB

32

Ritek,
Transcend

2000

48GB

32

Pretec

3000

64GB

32

Sandisk,
Samsung

4000

2.4.6  Special cards

Some manufacturers deliver CF cards aimed at
industrial use, with more robust
specifications.
Sandisk (Industrial 5000), Ritek
(Rugged), A-Data.

2.5  Firmware

Firmware is the "operating system" of the camera.
With the SD14 Sigma has been very good at frequently
releasing firmware upgrades to resolve issues.
Unfortunately, errors have also been introduced with
firmware upgrades.

The key points of an upgrade is

Download a file (or two) from the Sigma site

Place it in the root of the CF card

Initiate an upgrade from the menu in the camera.

2.5.1  Firmware
upgrade warning

There are/have been some unidentified problems with
the upgrade process. There is/was a bug in the firmware
or camera, which in some cases causes the camera to
become inoperable, and subject for reflash by a Sigma
support centre.
Upgrades prior to v1.06 caused just a
few upgrade failures.
Upgrade to v1.06 was bad, with
many failed upgrades.
Upgrade to v1.07 has caused
only a few failures.
Upgrade to v1.08 has not caused
any failures. (A month after release –
2008-08-11)
The true nature of the bug is not known,
in any case please follow the instructions provided on
Sigmas site.

2.5.2  Current firmware version
and known bugs

As of 2009-01-05, the current version is 1.08.
Firmware upgrade V1.08, and v1.07, both consists of two
files; each act as an upgrade, and has to be upgraded in
the right order.
v1.08 seems to improve an issue with
camera locks (probably introduced with v1.06). Users
still report this issue.
v1.08 seems to fix an issue
with too large RAW files (introduced with v1.07)
(Seems like the JPEG content is duplicated) . One user
has reported one instance with an even larger RAW file
(127Mb) with v1.08, but this may be from a defective
camera.
v.1.08 does not seem to fix a green cast
issue reported by several – not seen by
others.

2.5.3  Firmware
location

The current version can be found here.

Sigma used to store older firmware versions on their
site, but these have recently (as of 20080430) been
deleted.
If you, for some reason, need an earlier
version of the firmware, contact me by email.
Up to
v1.06 it was not possible to downgrade a FW version, but
reports indicate that with v1.07 and v1.08, it is
possible to downgrade.

2.5.4  Check your version of
the Firmware

To check your SD14 firmware:

Activate the Menu (Press Menu button.)

Find "Firmware". (Arrow up/down)

Press Ok or Right arrow,

Highlight "Current version" (default)

Press "Ok".

Current firmware version is shown.
(Press Menu to
exit Menu mode.)

2.5.5  Firmware
history

Sigma has released 7 firmware upgrades since the
release of the SD14. Most have been for fixing bugs, but
also a major improvement – ISO 50 (from version
1.05).v1.06 and earlier: not find a valid firmware file
and will report: "Firmware update failed"-v1.07 and up:
downgrade to the older FWYou may re-run the firmware
update.Firmware upgradeWarning! Read this before you
upgrade.A failed firmware upgrade may cause the camera
to cease operating. If so, you will have to send your
SD14 to Sigma for reflashing the firmware. There is/was
a bug in Sigma's firmware upgrade routine or camera,
that cause seemingly random firmware upgrade failures.
The situation has greatly improved with firmware version
v1.07, where just a few had upgrade failures. With v1.08
no firmware upgrade failures has been reported so far.
One issue that undisputedly may cause firmware upgrade
failure is if the camera runs out of power during the
upgrade. Therefore, use only freshly charged and well
seasoned batteries for the upgrade.First: Do not do the
update until your battery is seasoned. You MUST have a
good battery before you update.

Version

Date

1.01

April 2007

1.02

May 2007

1.03

May 2007

1.04

August 2007

1.05

October 2007

1.06

February 2008

1.07

April 2008

1.08

August
2008

See a "complete" list of updated features here:
http://www.sigma-sd14.com/software/firmware/
"Complete"
because there are several undocumented bugfixes and
other changes.
Compare your firmware version against
the current version found here:
http://www.sigma-sd14.com/software/firmware/
v1.06
was published, but withdrawn due to a large percentage
of failed v1.06 firmware updates.
v1.06 and v1.07
also introduced some unpleasant bugs. v1.08 is supposed
to have corrected this.

If you place the
firmware update file in a subdirectory, the camera will
not find a firmware file and will report: "Firmware
update failed"

If you place an old firmware
update file on the card (root), the camera
will:

v1.06 and earlier: not find a valid firmware file
and will report: "Firmware update failed"

v1.07 and up: downgrade to the older FW

You may re-run the firmware update.

2.5.6  Firmware
upgrade

Warning! Read this before you
upgrade.
A failed
firmware upgrade may cause the camera to cease
operating. If so, you will have to send your SD14 to
Sigma for reflashing the firmware.
There
is/was a bug in Sigma's firmware upgrade routine or
camera, that cause seemingly random firmware upgrade
failures. The situation has greatly improved with
firmware version v1.07, where just a few had upgrade
failures. With v1.08 no firmware upgrade failures has
been reported so far.
One issue that undisputedly
may cause firmware upgrade failure is if the camera runs
out of power during the upgrade. Therefore, use only
freshly charged and well seasoned batteries for the
upgrade.
First: Do not do the update until your
battery is seasoned. You MUST have a good battery before
you update.

Preferred power configurations when upgrading:

DC adaptor (with a well seasoned, freshly charged
battery in camera, to cater for power outage)

The Power Grip (with two well seasoned, freshly
charged batteries)

A well seasoned, freshly charged battery in camera

Follow the update procedure as outlined in the
manual/on the Sigma web-site.
http://www.sigma-sd14.com/software/firmware/If, after a
few discharge/charge cycles, you get only like 100
images or less on one set of batteries, I would
recommend against updating.Sigma USA recommends that the
camera be connected to the AC adapter for Firmware
updates (Ref TJ Hanlon, dpreview)"

But: Firmware update (at least from v1.05 to v1.06)
might fail even with grip or AC adaptor.

2.5.7  The
procedure:

See the manual or Sigma's web site for the procedure
and FOLLOW IT – even if some of the steps are clearly
unnecessary. (See the next section)
If the update
fails, and the camera does not start, the camera has to
go back for service, so take every step you can to get
it right. (Even then it may fail, unfortunately)

2.5.8  Afterword on firmware
upgrade

There are some hard to kill myths about the possible
causes of firmware upgrades.
If you get a "Brickma"
(a SD14 which no longer works due to a failed firmware
upgrade), and report this failure at the dpreview forum,
be sure to have followed the procedure. Some well
meaning, but unknowledgeable people will try to pin the
failure to some specific steps of the procedure. Let me
be clear; it does not harm to follow the procedure to
the letter. It is written this way to ensure that
computer illiterates also have a chance to get it
right

First myth:  Format the CF card in the camera
prior to upgrading, or you risk a Brickma.

.The ONLY reason to do an In-camera format prior to
upgrading, is to erase any prior firmware file on the CF
card, or fix an issue with CF cards used in other
brands. If you have several firmware versions/files on
the card, the camera may choose another version than you
wanted. You can achieve the same with a computer format
(windows, mac or linux) or just delete the files
manually. The Sigma In-camera formatting does not leave
anything magic on the CF card that the upgrading routine
uses. It erases whatever is on the card, rebuilds the
File allocation table (FAT), creates a Sigma specific
file-structure and name the volume Sigma-SD14.
Supporting this view is the fact that many of those who
had a Brickma when going from v1.05 to v1.06 did format
in camera prior to upgrade, and many that did not get a
Brickma did not format in camera prior to upgrade.
Personally I have never done an in-camera format on the
card I use for upgrade, and every firmware upgrade has
been successful, including v1.05 to v1.06.

Second myth: There must be no other files on the
cards other than the firmware upgrade, or else you risk
a Brickma.

This is not true. Many users (who do not format prior
to upgrade) have reported that they leave other files on
the card during upgrade, with no problems at all.

Third myth: A firmware file not in the root
directory can cause a Brickma.

This is not true. It will never be found by the
firmware upgrade routine (which only looks in the root
of the CF). The only result is the same error message
that you get
It will state "Firmware upgrade
failed", but will NOT result in a Brickma.

2.5.9  Note on the "Firmware
upgrade failed" error message.

This error message is unfortunately not very
informative in some instances. It does appear if you
actually get a Brickma (meaning that the camera cannot
be used, despite turning camera off/on or removing
battery/reinserting). But it also appears if the FW
upgrade routine does not find an appropriate FW file,
namely

a) without a firmware upgrade file in the root
b)
with a firmware upgrade file in an other location than
in the root (which is the same as a)
c) with an older
firmware file in root (with camera FW prior to
v1.07).
It states that the "Firmware upgrade failed",
instead of saying that no firmware file was found. But
it does NOT result in a Brickma.

2.6  Note on the in-camera
format.

A note about the in-camera format; you may be better
off using windows, mac or linux. This is because the
in-camera formatting is a quick format that do not check
the card in any way.

2.7  Adjusting the dioptre
setting

You are asked to adjust the dioptre, but the manual
does not tell you how. Most people do this with a lens
on the camera, focus the lens, and adjust the dioptre so
the picture looks as sharp as they can get it. This
approach can yield wrong result.
Here is another
approach:
1. Take the lens off.
2. Look through
the viewfinder.
3. Adjust the dioptre setting until
the markings on the finder screen is as sharp as you can
get it.
Be warned, the circle and the focus marks
seems to lie in different planes, so the circle may
appear sharp when the focus marks are not. Both should
be in focus.
Dioptre adjustment does ONLY affect
Manual Focus. If AF it only affect how sharp the image
looks to you – the cameras AF system don't care how you
adjust the dioptre.

2.8  About resolution

The camera delivers very good JPEGs. (Some user
differs on this) However, in Super High-Res JPEG, the
SD14 extrapolates the pixels, and the result is not
considered very good. In this mode they also writes
slower than RAW, due to the uprez. Most people use RAW.
This is highly recommended, because the originals are
better, and you can easily make JPEG from them (or TIFFs
for exporting to Photoshop without the (slight) loss of
quality that JPEG gives you). The camera can
save:

Raw

Jpg

The camera can not save RAW + JPEG. But the RAW does
contain a JPEG, which can be extracted by a few
3rd-party SW.

2.8.1  JPEG extraction from
RAW:

Program

Info

Irfanview

Free

dcraw

Free

Dcraw
–e

Download:
http://www.insflug.org/raw/software/download/windows.php3

Batch: dcraw.exe
-e -v c:\pictures\*.x3f

More info: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=23168005

X3FRestore

Free

Developed
by Gary Bainbridge.

Download: ftp://bainb.dyndns.org/X3FRestore.zip

More
info: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=23172893

X3F

Free

Developed
by Pavel Solokov

Download:  http://www.photofo.com/downloads/x3f.zip

More
info:

Jsplit

Free

More
info: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=23181431

X3FJpegExtractor

Free

Developed
by Paul Kocsis

XP,
Vista, OSX(Power PC), OSX(Intel), and
OSX(Universal binary).

The same version works for both DP1 and SD14
X3F files and can be downloaded

here:

http://dp1jpeg.susieqfoundation.org/

X3f_extract

Free

Developed
by Roland Karlsson (Proxel)

Open Source

x3f_extract -jpg
foo.x3f

Download:
http://www.proxel.se/downloads/x3f.tgz

See also: http://www.proxel.se/x3f.html

Qimage

Commercial

ThumbsPlus

Commercial

3.  Start using the camera:

3.1  Exposure

It is VERY important to get the exposure right. If
you underexpose, and need to push it in post processing,
you will most likely get ugly noise (green/magenta
blotches) in the darker parts of the picture. Learn to
use the histogram, and expose as much as possible to the
right without burning the highlights. Even better is to
use a separate exposure meter, and measure incident
light of course. There is some useful info on basic
exposure skills here.
To confuse matters, several
believe that measuring was changed in some of the
firmware upgrades, and that various versions of the SPP
act slightly differently.
There has also been reports
of the SD14 measuring differing from other cameras,
while other claim it does not, suggesting variations
between cameras.
It all boils down to getting to
know your own
camera/workflow

3.1.1  Histogram

The histogram will show you one coloured line for each of
red, blue and green.
Press the Info button to see the
histogram when preview/reviewing the image.
You can also
have the camera to show a histogram as part of the review.
("Menu", "Preview Style", "Info screen").
The histogram is
generated from the JPEG, so if you change settings in-camera,
this will also change the histogram.

3.1.2  Basic
measuring

Also remember basic measuring theory. If you use the
cameras meter, it will expose your subject so it resembles 18%
gray. If you have a subject lighter than 18% gray (like skin),
you need to overexpose a little. If the subject is darker than
18%, you need to underexpose. If you master this, use the
"Centre Area Metering", otherwise stick to "8 segment
metering".

3.1.3  Red

If you have bright red in your scene, you run the risk of
clipping the red channel. In this case you might need to go
down a little on the exposure. There have been tons of post on
this subject on dpreview. Some claim problems with it, some
claim not. This suggest that there might be camera to camera
variance.

3.1.4  Over exposure
warning

You can get the camera to mark blown out areas with a red
colour on the LCD-screen. Some people have activated this
without knowing what it does, and been surprised by this red
colour in the sky on the LCD. (J) Activate by:
• Menu
•
Exp. Warning: On

3.2  About focus

If your pictures are not quite as sharp as you expect, and
you are sure it is not camera shake, it might be a focus
issue.
You should always verify that the camera is focusing
properly, both with Auto Focus (AF) and Manual Focus (MF),
regardless of camera make.
Most SD14s do focus properly,
but there are also several users that have had "back focusing"
or "front focusing" issues.
Back focusing is when you/the
camera focus on a subject, but the focal plane in the
resulting picture is beyond this subject.
Front focusing is
when you/the camera focus on a subject, but the focal plane in
the resulting picture is in front of this subject.
Either
most people do not have front/back focus issues, or it is
invisible because it falls within DOF.
Make sure you test
your camera with all your lenses. If there are issues, contact
Sigma. You need to send the camera and ALL your lenses to
Sigma for calibration. Read this useful
article on the subject.

3.2.1  Focus test

This is one way to test for focus issues:

Download and print a Focus Test Chart that can tell you
how much focus is off. Find a .pdf file for download
here:  http://www.focustestchart.com/chart.html. Chart
at the end.

Set the Dioptre properly (this will only affect Manual
Focus)

Place the Focus Test Chart at a plain surface, well lit.

Set camera at tripod, point it 45 degrees at the Focus
Test Chart.

Use widest aperture

Use AF at the test point of the Chart.

Make several exposures with same lens, with different
starting points for the focus. Make notes for each picture.
(Image number, AF, lens and focus starting point)

Use MF at the test point of the Chart.

Make several exposures with same lens, with different
starting points for the focus. Make notes for each picture.
(Image number, MF, lens and focus starting point)

Load pictures in SPP

Evaluate

It is possible that AF and MF differ, and neither needs to
be correct. If you have front or back focus issues, talk with
your nearest Sigma representative. Use your pictures and notes
to document the issues. You will need to send both camera and
ALL lenses in for calibration. (This is not Sigma specific, it
happens with all brands)

3.2.2  Focus adjustments
possible?

From time to time it is claimed that you can adjust the
MF/AF focus with small screws in the mirror box. This advice
originates from similar suggestions for the D-70 and has been
called a bad advice.
While some claims that this method
works for them, this is certainly not how Sigma adjust AF
issues. The suggested screw for AF adjustment is not for AF
adjustment, but for adjusting the AF sensors to match the AF
brackets. So you are in fact moving the AF measure spot. And
the top AF points might then have front focus and the bottom
might have back focus or vice versa. The other screw is for
centering the viewfinder to match the sensor.
Reliable AF
depends on several factors.
a) That the distance the light
travel is the same as it travels to reach the sensor.
b)
That the AF sensor is absolutely plane (90 degrees)
c) That
the lens table is correct (when the AF-module determine that
an adjustment of 100 units in one direction is required, but
the lens believes this is 110)
d) That the lens actually
performs the desired movement
If the adjustment of the AF
sensor is similar to the D-70, it is done by three screws in
the AF-module, which require the camera to be opened.
One
reference:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=22707127
My
sentiment is: Let Sigma handle it.

3.2.3  AF Focus
points

The SD14 has 5 focus points, and the focus point is
selected by holding the dedicated "AF-point Select" button at
the back of the camera, while turning the Command Dial. One
option selects all focus points, allowing the camera to choose
a point. The upper and lower AF-point needs horizontal
contrast (line) to detect focus, the left and right AF points
needs vertical contrast (line). The centre point can cope with
both horizontal and vertical contrast..

3.2.4  Focus confirm with manual
focus

The focus LED will light up if the subject in the active
focus point is in focus.
This will also work with non-Sigma
lenses, but there is one catch: After battery change, it is
necessary to mount a Sigma lens first. After this, change to a
non-Sigma lens, and the focus assist LED will work. (Confirmed
with M42) See:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=27316938

3.2.5  Focus and Exposure
Off-centre

If you do not want everything in centre, follow this
procedure (if you use P, A or S mode and AF):
1. Compose
your picture. Check that nothing just outside the viewfinder
is going to appear in your picture.
2. Measure on the part
of the picture you want correctly exposed and lock exposure.
(Half-press shutter, press and hold the Exposure lock button
(AEL), release the shutter.
3. Aim at the part of the
picture you want in focus, and lock focus. (Half-press and
hold the shutter release. AFL)
4. Recompose and take the
picture.
There is a catch with this method. The focus plane
of a lens is flat, parallel to the sensor. This means that the
distance to the centre is shorter than to any other point. So
if you focus lock in the centre, but moves this point off
centre, you have measured a too short distance, and focus will
lay behind the subject you focused on. It may very well be
that this error is invisible due to DOF, lens, distance to
subject and aperture, but it will always be there with most
lenses.
For more explanation, see:
http://visual-vacations.com/Photography/focus-recompose_sucks.htm

The remedy is to use another focus point (only if you do
not have to recompose from this also) or switch to manual
focus.

3.3  Sensor/Focusing Screen
alignment.

Some users have reported a tilted horizon, even if it looks
straight in the viewfinder.
This is either a sensor
misalignment, or more likely a misaligned focusing
screen.
If you see this problem, follow this procedure to
identify the cause.
Place the camera flat on a table. Place
a mirror (w/o a frame) at 90 degree, in front of the camera,
so you can see in the viewfinder where the mirror rests at the
table..
1. If the bottom of the mirror (where it rests at
the table) does not look straight, it is a screen
misalignment.
2. If you take a picture, and you in this
picture can see that the bottom of the mirror is not parallel
to the frame, you have a misaligned sensor.
A combination
could also theoretically happen.

3.3.1  How to fix a misaligned
screen:

If the screen in the viewfinder is misaligned, you may be
able to correct it your self. But it involves removing the
fragile dust protector.
If you do not want or cannot fix it
yourself, or if it is a sensor misalignment, the camera has to
be sent to Sigma.

3.4  Sleep mode/Power save

There are 3 sleep timers on the camera for energy
conservation. 2 of them are configurable.
LCD sleep (30 sec
default - configurable)
Auto Power Off (1 min default -
configurable)
Metering/AF off – normally after 5-6
sec.  Not configurable
The latter requires you to
half-press the shutter to wake up the metering, sometimes
losing valuable time. Make it a habit to half-press while you
lift the camera to your eye. A little catch here; the
mechanical half-way point is a tiny bit before the electrical
half-way point (at my camera at least).
If you just tap
the shutter, you get 6 sec. before shutdown. But if the focus
assist lamp lights up, this timer changes to around 30
secs.

3.5  P–Mode

When using P-mode, you can change both shutter and aperture
simultaneously by turning the Command dial. After the shot,
the settings will return to the initial combination.

3.6  Camera movement

Use a tripod/support, or short shutter times, whenever
possible. The sensor is very small, so camera movement is
"magnified". On a tripod, use a release, preferably with
mirror up. (There are several people who do not use tripod and
still get very sharp pictures.)
If you use tripod, and in
P, A or S, remember to cover the viewfinder or else the
measuring might be affected. Use the enclosed Finder
Cap.
You cannot use the old "mirror-up + delay" trick, as
these settings resides on the same wheel (drive mode
wheel).

3.7  Viewfinder

The viewfinder is bright, at least compared to SD9/SD10.

Another note for SD9/SD10 owners: The SD14 does not
have the sportsfinder like the SD9/10

3.7.1  Coverage

The Viewfinder of the SD14 covers 98% vertically and
horizontally (96% total) of what will be included in the
picture. This is more than many other cameras, but you still
need to be aware of objects just outside the frame

3.7.2  Focusing
Screen

The focusing screen is in principle replaceable, but no
manufacturer is currently making useable screens for the SD14.
Katz used to make screens for the SD-19/SD-10. They are
currently looking into the possibility to make one for the
SD14. It can be tricky to remount it, because you may end up
with a misaligned screen, and not straight horizons. Katz
reported that this was an returning issue with SD9/10

3.7.3  Additional
options

A Nikon magnifying viewfinder will fit if the adapter is
slid on upside down. (Tip: OnlyRealPixel)
(http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=25962243)

A Pentax magnifier (O-ME53) will also fit.

3.8  WB

WB is set by pressing the "ISO/WB" button on the back. A
screen with four settings is shown on the LCD. The "Down
arrow" scrolls through the available WB settings.
The
options are:

AWB

Sunlight

Shade

Overcast

Tungsten/Incandescent

Fluorescent

Flash (there are claims that this is broken – use AWB)

CWB (if a Custom WB is done)

If you scroll too far, you have to scroll through the whole
list, as it is not possible to scroll backwards. (The
intuitive action is to use "Up arrow", but this will only
change your ISO setting, so you need to scroll all the ISO
settings to get your ISO setting back). Test and train, so you
do not have to fiddle with this in action.
You can see your
WB setting by pressing ISO/WB button, or by pressing "Info"
button. You have to look at the rear screen for this, as it is
no WB indication in the viewfinder or on the top LCD.
There
is no option for Kelvin, and no possibility for fine-tuning
WB.

3.8.1  AWB

Beware of using AWB. It may be excellent most of the time,
but it may be affected by dominant colours. It is not
considered very good. Also, it has been reported that shooting
AWB, and changing to XWB (any WB) yields different results
than shooting with XWB.
If you shoot RAW, a better option
than AWB is to always use Sunlight, and change the WB in SPP
or another Raw developer later, if needed.

3.8.2  Custom WB

There is one "slot" for Custom WB (CWB)
You access CWB
measuring through the Menu. (This is the only every day
function that is hidden in the menu system)
1. Press
"Menu"
2. Select "Set custom WB"
3. Point the camera at
a scene with a white or grey card. The manual says: "fill the
centre viewing circle with the card or subject being used as
the target for CWB"
4. Press shutter button to capture a
custom white balance
5. The CWB option is automatically
selected in the WB menu.
The reading will be remembered
until next CWB or a camera boot/factory reset.
If using
white/grey cards, the result (colour balance) will differs
using the white vs. the grey side of the card. Test for
yourself. Another useful tip is to turn off AF, else the
camera may hunt for focus.

3.8.2.1 Expodisc (or
similar)

Many people
use the Expodisc, a device that you screw into the filter
holder. Aim it at the subject, and it will act as a grey card.
You can do a custom WB with it, and as a "side effect", you
will also get an exposure measurement. Use this
approach:
1. Set camera at Manual focus.
2. Screw the
Expodisc in place
3. Press "Menu"
4. Select "Set custom
WB"
5. Point the camera towards the subject
6. Press
shutter button to capture a custom white balance
7. Set
shutter and aperture according to the reading
Note:
Exposure measurement might be more precise if the camera with
the Expodisc is turned 180 degrees around, to measure the
incident light, just as you traditionally would use a light
meter. This might also give a more precise WB measurement, as
you would measure the colour temperature of the incident
light. Otherwise the reading could be fooled by strong colours
within the frame. There are more to this, but it is without
the scope of this article. There are fierce discussions about
this, so see the Expodisc forum or test for yourself.

3.8.3  WB indoor, with tungsten or
halogen light

With tungsten and halogen light, there are several
approaches:
1. Using Sunlight WB or AWB, and change in post
process.  (not recommended)
2. Use Incandescent
WB.  (not recommended)
3. Using Custom WB.  (not
recommended)
4. Use a 80A or a 80B filter on the camera,
both when measuring WB and when shooting. (Use CWB or Overcast
WB)
5. Use what's called "mired" filters/foils.
6. Mix
channels from JPEG and RAW

Due to the lack of blue in
Tungsten and halogen, the first three approaches will give you
a weak blue channel, more noise and lower dynamic range, which
cannot be amended in post processing. The answer is as in the
good old film days, to use an 80A or an 80B filter on the
camera, and set the WB to Overcast (or use Custom WB).

3.8.3.1  0A/80B
method:

PROs:
- White looks white
- Strengthens the
blue channel- less noise even at higher ISOs.
- Greater
dynamic range
CONs:
- You lose 1 or 2 stops.

Reference:
http://www.dantestella.com/technical/lightbalance.html

3.8.3.2  Mired
filters

This is a technique from the film days, still widely used
among professionals. The idea is to colour balance the light
sources, using specially designed filter foil. One example
could be if you shoot portrait at the beach with a frontal
flash and a setting sun within the picture. The sun is warm,
the flash is cold. There is no way a WB setting can balance
this. As it is a bit tricky to mire the sun, what you would do
is to use a yellow foil on the flash, for shifting it from
6000K to 4500K or something. Now you have two WB-conform light
sources and you can start your WB measurement to get the
expression you want.
Another example, in mixed indoor
light, you can place a blue filter in front of each of the
tungsten lights, to balance the light with the light coming
from outside

3.8.3.3  Mix JPEG and
RAW

This technique has been suggested at dpreview – Sigma Forum
- by gbainbridge
If you run into a situation where the blue
channel is week, an option is to swap this blue channel with
the blue channel from the JPEG. It will not remedy everything,
but it will reduce noise.
See:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=27068167

3.9  File numbering

Default is continuous numbering. You can also have
the camera to start at 0001 each time you insert an
empty CF card.
After 9999 images, the camera starts
at 0001 again, in a new subdirectory: 101SIGMA. Until
you format the CF-card, files is placed in this
directory.
A camera reset will also reset the cameras
image number counter

3.9.1  Multiple cards and 9999+
images

If you use multiple CF-cards, and only empty cards by
doing an in-camera format or delete, you need to take
some special precautions when reaching 9999 images. The
problem is that when you insert a card with a higher
image number than the counter in the camera, the cameras
counter is replaced with the highest number from the
card. This action is performed at CF card insert, so
even if you format the card prior to taking pictures,
you end up with a wrong sequence. Even if you can
correct it (a bit cumbersome), it will happen again with
the next card. The solution is to empty all cards in the
computer (delete or format) prior to using them in the
SD14. (If you already have run into this problem, se
below for fix. But then you might as well run all your
cards through an in-camera format before you reset the
number)

3.9.2  Restoring proper
numbering sequence

Let us say you have taken 5000 images. By accident,
you change to File Numbering Auto Reset (or do a Camera
reset) and when inserting an empty CF card, it starts
from 0001. How do you get it to start from 5001?
And
what if by any reason you want to LOWER the
count?

3.9.2.1  Adjust the counter
UP:

1. Copy an image with the desired number minus one to
a CF card. Make sure no images with higher numbers
resides on that card.
2. Set camera to File
Numbering: Continuous
3. Insert the CF card into the
camera
Voila, next picture will be numbered one
higher.

3.9.2.2  Adjust the counter
DOWN:

1. Copy an image with the desired number -1 to a CF
card. Make sure no images with higher numbers resides on
that card.
2. Insert card in camera
3. Set camera
to File Numbering: Auto Reset
4. Set camera to File
Numbering: Continuous
Voila, next picture will be
numbered one higher.
Remember to erase those images
with a too high number from your CF card before you use
that card again, as the SD14 will use the highest file
number on the card as a base.

The "rules" are:
If set to File
Numbering Continuous, the SD14 remembers the last
number; let's call it #1000.
- insert a empty
CF card, and the next picture will be #1001
-
OR insert a card with highest number = #879
(=lower than #1000), and the next picture will
still be *1001
- OR insert a card with highest
number = #1287 (=higher than #1000), and the next
picture will be *1288

If camera is set to
File Numbering Auto Reset,
- insert a empty CF
card, and the next picture will be #0001
- OR
insert a card with highest number = #1287 and the
next picture will be #1288
- OR insert a card
with highest number = #879, and the next picture
will be #880

3.10  Flash Photography

The SD14 can synchronise with the flash at up to
1/200th second.

3.10.1  Pop-Up
flash

Lift to start charging. Charge time is approximately
5 sec.
The shutter cannot be released while the
pop-up flash is charging.

3.10.2  Sigma
flashes

Use DG flashes

EF-500 DG SUPER SA-STTL
Recommended by
Sigma
Allows shutter speeds of up to 1/4000th
seconds.
EF-500 DG STD SA-STTL
Recommended
by Sigma
EF-500 DG SUPER SA or EF-500 DG STD
SA
Restrictions:
- AF auxillary light may not
be powerful enough
- SUPER, may have mismatch on
camera/flash display
- Wireless flash cannot be used.
(Works as slave)
EF-530 DG Super
New
flash
EF-530 DG Std
New flash

3.10.3  PC Syncro
Terminal

The SD14 has a PC Syncro Terminal for connecting an
external flash.
S-TTL will not work if PC Syncro is
used.
The PC syncro can cope with flash voltage up to
250V.

3.10.4  Flash photography –
General info

Flash photography requires some skill and practice to
get right. SD14 is not different from any other
camera.
Go to
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
for a good tutorial.
Also: A guide from a pro SD14
owner, Carl Rytterfalk:
http://www.rytterfalk.com/2008/01/02/learn-flash-photography-club/

Remember:
The size of the light source determines how soft the
light is. A direct flash is a very small light source,
which is the reason for the harsh unpleasant flash
pictures. Therefore, try bouncing the flash off a wall
or the ceiling, or use a diffuser/reflector.
Make
one yourself at virtually no cost.

-http://abetterbouncecard.com/
Or see some
commercial available
options:
-http://store.garyfonginc.com/liiido.html
-http://www.stofen.com/
-http://www.dembflashproducts.com/flipit/

-http://www.takegreatphotos.com/light_reflector.php

3.11  ISO

http://
www.sigmauserforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47

The Sigma SD14 has the following ISO in standard
mode:
-ISO 100
-ISO 200
-ISO 400
-ISO
800
In extended mode the following ISOs are
added:
-ISO 50 (requires Firmware v. 1.05 or
later)
-ISO 1600
To activate Extended mode:
-
Press Func 7 times and hold.
- Turn Command Dial so
it reads Ext at the top LCD.
ISO 50 and ISO 1600 will
now appear in the menu.
ISO is set in the same
fashion as WB. Press ISO/WB, then on the LCD, scroll
through the options with the "up
arrow".

3.11.1  High
ISO

ISO 800 and even more ISO 1600 gives you
quite desaturated pictures. However, Klaus R at the
Sigmauser forum has come up with a workflow that enhance
high ISO work, applying this as a filter in Raw Photo
Studio (Only in German). http://
www.sigmauserforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47

3.12  About speed

The camera can shoot about 2,7 fps in low res, and
about 2,3 fps in high. The buffer takes 5-6 frames with
RAW hi-res. The camera uses 5-6 sec. to write a frame to
the card. This means that when the buffer is full, you
can take one picture every 5-6 second or 10-12 pictures
a minute. Lower resolution will speed things up
considerably, so if you suspect situations where the
buffer fills up, you may consider lowering the
resolution.

3.13  Dark frame capture

When working with longer exposures, the camera will
automatically capture a dark frame, to correct for
sensor state. If you shoot single shots, the dark frame
is captured immediately after. In continuous, the dark
frame is captured after the sequence, when you let go of
the shutter
release.

3.14  Mirror Up

Mirror Up is at the "Drive Mode" wheel.
1. Set
the Drive Mode wheel to "Up"
2. Do metering and
focus
3. Press the shutter all the way (this will
open and lock the mirror, and lock AEL and AFL if you
haven't done so already)
4. Release the shutter
5.
Press the shutter again to expose. (This also releases
the mirror)
Note that you only need a tiny pressure
to expose in step 5. This is surprising first time you
use it, so try it out.
You have to repeat the process
if you want to take another mirror-up shot, as the
mirror automatically returns to unlocked
position.
You have 30 seconds between activating the
Mirror-Up and taking the shot; else the camera release
the mirror automatically.
You cannot use time delay
with mirror up, as they are both on same wheel.
A bug
in firmware up to v1.05: If you regret after step 3, and
decide not to take the shot, but instead turn the "Drive
mode" wheel to Single shot, you will not be able to take
a picture in any mode until you have turned the camera
off/on. (This bug is fixed in v1.06 of the
firmware)

3.15  Releases

3.15.1  SIGMA CR-21 remote
switch

Sigma uses a ordinary 2.5 mm jack, similar to other
makers.
This release does provide shutter half-press
function, contrary to what the manual says.

3.15.2  SD9 and SD10
releases

It is stated in the manual, and reported from users
that the releases for SD9 and SD-10 cannot be used
(http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=26008874),
while others claim they do work.
(http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=25928993)

3.15.3  Non-Sigma
releases

It is reported that some non-Sigma releases work
perfectly.
- Chinese made JJC MR-I.
Some releases
release the camera but do not support shutter half-press
function.
- Canon RS60-E3 cable release (and
presumably non-brand clones)

3.15.4  SIGMA RS-31 remote
controller

Sigma RS-31 allows for remote release from 5 meters
in front to 3 meter at 30 degrees. A large lens might
interfere.
Match the IR-channel on remote and on
camera. There are three channels to choose from, in case
of interference.
To select channel on the SD14: Press
Func 4 times and hold.
Activating the remote control
changes the behaviour of the SD14 in several ways:
*
Camera no longer show speed/aperture in viewfinder/top
LCD. You have to half-press shutter to see shutter
speed/aperture all modes. And they disappear the moment
you release the button.
* To change Speed/Aperture in
A, S and M, even if they are not visible, you can still
change the settings with only the Command Dial. This
does not work in P.
* To have Speed/Aperture visible
while changing, you can half-press shutter while turning
the Command Dial (VERY cumbersome). Instead, press and
hold the DOF button, and turn the Command Dial.
*
Continuous cannot be used. (Fires only one)
* Mirror
Up can be used, but be aware that you have to
re-activate mirror up after each shot.
* AEL button
no longer works. Workaround is to use DOF button. It
gives AEL, even if no AEL indication shows up. However,
it does not make much sense to keep any fingers on the
camera when working with a remote release (unless it is
a substitute for a cable release)
* Camera turns off
after 5 minutes of inactivity.
* Battery consumption
will increase, so remember to switch off.
The above
indicates that best way to work with the remote release
is to do all the adjustments prior to activating the
remote. If you have chosen an IR channel and then want
to change exposure, it is much easier to deactivate IR,
set the exposure, and reactivate IR.

Note: If AEL
does not work, or speed/aperture disappears from the
LCD/viewfinder when you release half-press, you probably
have a remote channel activated.

3.16  LCD screen

The image shown on the LCD screen is the JPEG from
the RAW file (or the actual JPEG if camera is set to
JPEG). The LCD has quite low resolution. Some people
find the LCD very useful for checking sharpness, but
this is impossible for others. Image quality on the LCD
was greatly improved with firmware version
v1.05.
There are recommendations for setting JPEG
parameters in camera to make the LCD image appearance
better. Beware, as this also influence the histogram, as
the histogram is taken from the JPEG within the RAW
file, making the histogram useless.

3.17  AEL (Auto Exposure
Lock)

AEL will be activated when pressing the AEL button,
combined with half-press of the shutter.
AEL will
also be activated when you press the DOF button.
AEL
button does not work when remote control is activated.
(But you can activate AEL with DOF
button)

3.18  Dust

The SD14 has a dust protector/IR protector made of
glass between the lens and the mirror.
Also, the
shutter is improved over SD9/10, so shutter debris is
less frequent.
The theory is that dust or spots on
the dust protector will be so OOF that they are
invisible.
The dust protector is a great help as no
dust enters the camera when you change lenses.

3.18.1  The dust
protector

It is a very delicate device, easy to destroy when
re-inserting. Be careful.
See advice here:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=22474714

3.18.2  Cleaning the
sensor

Dust (or fragments) on the sensor may appear, despite
of the dust protector.
You can send in the camera for
cleaning, or do it yourself if you are comfortable with
that. Follow the instructions in the manual
carefully.
Firmware after 1.01 allows for sensor
cleaning on battery power. Firmware 1.00 requires the
AC-adaptor for sensor cleaning.
If doing it on
battery power, you would want a good battery, or
preferably: The Power grip with two good
batteries.

3.19  IR

The SD14 is very suitable for IR photography. The
dust protector is also an IR protection filter. Remove
the dust protector, and place an IR filter on the lens,
and you have an IR ready camera.

3.20  The func menu system

The func menu system hides 8 settings. See the
following table for an overview. It is used by pressing
the "func button" the desired number of times, and
holding it at the last press. Then turn the Command Dial
to change the settings. The settings are shown on the
top LCD.

# of
press

Function

Options

1

Metering

Matrix

Centre Area (5 degrees)

Average

2

Focusing
mode

Single

Continous

3

Flash

Normal Flash

Red eye

Flash slave C1

Flash slave C2

Flash slave C3

4

Infrared
channels

-- (Off)

C1

C2

C3

5

Focus
confirm Beep

On

--   (meaning Off)

6

Focus
assist light

AF
Auxilary light

AL (On)

--  (meaning Off)

7

Mode

Standard

Extended (activates ISO50 and ISO1600 and
more)

8

Flash
sync time

Slowest
flash sync time (undocumented feature)

1/60

30 sec

See the manual for explanation of each
option.

4  Addendum to/errors in the
manual.

4.1  Undocumented
features/Additions

4.1.1  Flash - lowest shutter
speed

From firmware 1.04, you can force 1/60 to be the
lowest shutter speed available with flash (in A and P
mode).  Default is 30 sec.
Press Func 8 times
and hold; change with C-dial between 60 (1/60 sec) and
30" (30 sec).
(Thanks to Aaro at dpreview (Sigma
forum) who discovered this).

4.1.2  Halfway press with Cable
Release CR-21 supported

After unknown firmware update, the Sigma Cable
Release CR-21 now supports "halfway" operation, contrary
to what the manual says. (p.108)

4.1.3  AEL

When shutter is half pressed for AFL, AEL also
locks.
When DOF-button is pressed, AEL also
locks.

4.1.4  Flash
sync.

Where the manual says 1/180, it should read
1/160

4.1.5  ISO 50

ISO 50 is added to the ISO list (from firmware 1.05).
It requires activating Extended mode

4.1.6  Sensor cleaning on
battery allowed

Firmware 1.00: Sensor cleaning only available with
the dedicated AC adapter.
Firmware 1.01 and later:
Sensor cleaning can be done by powering the camera from
the battery.
If the voltage level of the battery
becomes lower than a certain level, the camera will emit
a warning beep and will close the cleaning mode. Sigma
strongly recommends using a fully charged battery for
the sensor cleaning.

5  Non-Sigma lenses for SD14

(Disclaimer: I have not attempted conversion myself
(yet), I have just compiled this information from posts
on dpreview.com and from email received)
The SD14 use
the SA mount from Sigma. Only Sigma makes SA mount
lenses. However, a lot of lenses from other
manufactorers can be used. The options are:

commercially available lens adaptors

commercially available mount replacement (Zeiss
and Nikon F)

performing some light/heavy engineering on
lenses/mounts.

The options are described here.

6  RAW Development

6.1  Color
calibration

If you plan to share the SD14 images (or images from
any camera) with others, through the Internet or by
print, a color calibrated monitor is a must.
There
are several HW/SW options.
On option that is said to
get you very close to a tool calibrated process
is:
http://www.aim-dtp.net/aim/evaluation/gamma_space/index.htm
(thanks to spalbird at dpreview)

6.2 SPP - Sigma Photo
Pro

SPP is Sigma's software for RAW development, and it
is enclosed with the camera.
It can also be
downloaded from Sigma's site, if you have a serial
number of a SD camera.

Supported versions are SPP 2.3 and 2.4 for PC, and
SPP 2.2 and 2.4 for MAC. The version numbering is quite
confusing at first glance, because the SD14 was released
with a version 3.0 (PC) and 3.1 (MAC). These versions
(at least the PC version) introduced some new, useful
features, but was bug-ridden. They were developed by
another third party vendor than Sigma had used for
previous versions.They are no longer available for
download.So Sigma returned to the 2.X line, and released
the 2.3 (PC) and 2.2 (MAC) versions. Later the 2.4
versions came, with DP1 support. Expect to see new
versions when DP2/SD15 is released.

The SPP3.x versions had Print, Zoom and was Color
Management. (Several people still use the SPP3 - myself
included.)

Version for PC: SPP 3 and SPP 2.3 (SPP 2.4 –
delivered with DP-1 will also work)
Version for MAC:
SPP 2.2, SPP 3.1 and SPP 2.4
Note 1: SPP 2.2 (and
below) for Windows does NOT work properly with SD14 RAW
files.
Note 2: As of August 2008, SPP3 is no longer
available for download.

6.2.1  SPP, versions and
Feature overview

Version

Release
date

PC

Mac

SD14
file support

DP-1
files support

Colour
managed

Print

Zoom

Loupe

Crop

Open/
edit JPEG

Open/
edit TIFF

Comments

SPP
2.2 (pc)

X

No

No

No

No

No

Yes

No

No

No

SPP

2.2 (mac)

X

Yes

No

?

No

No

Yes

No

No

No

SPP
3.0

X

Yes

No

Yes
(*1)

Yes

Yes

No

No

Yes

Yes

Bug
ridden (*2) and a big annoyance to
many.

SPP
2.3

20071207

X

Yes

No

No

No

No

Yes

No

No

No

SPP
2.4

X

?

Yes

Yes

No

No

No

Yes

No

No

No

SPP
3.1

X

Yes

No

Yes

?

?

?

No

?

?

Note *1: Some users claims it is color managed, while
others claim it is not:
LMC54:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=27352325
Note
*2: Bugs/limitations in SPP3
- Slow at showing
thumbnails
- Slow at processing
- TMP file pile
up
- Cannot process due to file error
- Not always
saving JPG (even if indicator implies it)
- Checkbox
for save to X3F file uncheck itself if resave unaltered
picture.
- Deleting images can lead to errors
-
Rotating images can lead to errors
- Rotating might
not work.
Tips
- Keep number of files per
folder at less than 100 or even less, else SPP 3 will
give you problems (will also be very slow on generating
thumbnails).
- Keep X3Fs, JPGs and TIFFs in separate
folders.
- A lot of RAM might help
- Defragment
your hard disk
- Clean up temp files.
- Use some
other application to delete and rotate the
images.
Note # 3:  Bugs/limitations SPP
3.1(Mac)
- It contacts Sigma's site every time it
launch (probably checking for updates)
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=26703890
-
Problems reported for some users with Leopard. App does
not launch.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=27043016
and others
- No arrows for previous/Next image,
(Workaround:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=26676302)

6.3  Raw Developer (Mac
only)

Can be used for processing the SD14 RAW files
It
is offered by Iridient Digital, at
"http://www.iridientdigital.com/" .
Brazile: "It has
a rather techie-oriented interface, but is powerful and
quite flexible, and it provides better control over
noise reduction."

6.4  Adobe Camera Raw
Plug-In

Used in other apps as a plug-in.
Current version
is: 4.5
It is also possible to download Camera Raw
4.6 (Release candidate):
http://labs.adobe.com/wiki/index.php/Camera_Raw_4.6

6.5  Adobe Lightroom and
Lightroom 2

Can be used for processing the RAW's
Uses Adobe
Camera Raw (ACR) for X3F conversion. Requires ACR v. 4.1
or later.

6.6  Adobe Photoshop
CS2

Does not support opening of the SD14 RAW image files.
Use SPP and save as TIFF before opening in
CS-2

6.7  Adobe Photoshop
CS3

Can be used for processing the RAW's
Uses Adobe
Camera Raw (ACR) for X3F conversion. Requires ACR v. 4.1
or later

6.8  Adobe Photoshop Elements
5

Can be used for processing the RAW's
Uses Adobe
Camera Raw (ACR) for X3F conversion. Requires ACR v. 4.1
or later.

6.9  DCRAW

Can be used for processing the RAW's
If you use
dcraw without parameters, the output is
bad.
Use:
dcraw -d img.x3f
or
dcraw -D
img.x3f
And if you want 16 bit output:
dcraw -4 -d
img.x3f
Source:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=29361345

7  Final words

I hope you have found something useful here. It has
taken a lot of time to compile and write this, but it is
well worth it if I by this can help new users to get
more out of their new camera. If you have any further
questions of how to the use of the SD14, please ask at
dpreview, the Sigma
forum:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1027

This
overview is produced by:
Øyvind Strøm
Corrections
and suggestions to:
Norwegianvikingindenmark(at)gmail.com

My
background:

As a professional photographer: 200-300.000 pictures
with Nikon film cameras (F3, FE2, FM) and 4,5x6, 6x6,
6x7 (Hasselblad, Mamiya, Bronica, Pentax)
25.000
pictures with Sony p&s
19 months and 15.000+
pictures with the SD14. Slowly restarting photographic
business.

3.21  Color
accuracy

If you are a professional that require absolute colour
accuracy, you probably have invested in the neccessary
equipment (which is needed for any camera). You also know how
incredibly expensive it is - we are looking at prices 3-4x the
current price of a SD14 body. Fortunately, not many need
absolute color accuracy. On the camera side, it requires a
professional color chart (24 or 140 patches), and SW for
creating camera profiles. Of course you need HW and SW for
calibrating your screen and printer too. Again, this is not
unique for the SD14. To complicate it further, each camera
setup (or each light situation) requiers a different profile,
so you can't just get a profile from someone. And there may
even be differences between individual cameras, requiring a
profile for each camera. One would typically take a picture of
the color chart with each camera whenever one change setup,
and make individual profiles. It goes without saying that one
works with Custom WB, and determine if one prefer to measure
at white or gray cards, or using a Expodisc in direct or
indirect mode. With that said, the SD14 produces very pleasing
colors, However, especially red may be a challenge. Where the
SD14 generally let you compensate for overexposures, this is
not true with red. The red channel is more prone to clipping.
You may need to experiment to find a workflow to take care of
red when needed.

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